Varnish

After some extra hours of sanding, the varnishing could be started. I use transarent DD-paint. Two components 1:2. And some thinner. Epoxy is sensitive for sunlight and DD is a sort of filter against UV. All parts should be painted at least two times. I used a foamroller for the easy parts and a little brush for the small parts. For the rail I used a stick with a part of foam. Very handy and neat.
Something I realised a day after: for making the paint more fluent, I added some extra hardener instead of thinner. Same bottles... Nevertheless all got hardened and looks very shiny and glossy. One little problem with the oars: the red paint liquefied again. The brush got red and it was very hard to get the non red surface to paint transparent. One of the grips has some faint red on it now.
Two days later I put a second layer on the outside. A little extra rolling with the foam roller after 10 minutes was not a good idea: because the paint was thicker already, it became a bit like orange skin. But generally I am satisfied with the result. Glad to have it transparent instead of an opaque colour like white or so.


Reacties

Een reactie posten

Populaire posts van deze blog

Review

Having used the boat for nine months now, I can give a sort of review. First: until now I only have rowed the boat. Sailing will soon be possible, because I finally made the sail. But since the completion of the boat, I rowed it weekly. What can I say? Well, rowing with it is fun. Some points: You need something like a cushion as a seat. I used a piece of foam which I normally use for my knees when gardening. When the wind blows more than 3 Bft, waves make the boat wet. You will need a small bucket. With head wind, rowing is a lot heavier. The boat can carry a lot of load. I have transported probably a hundred kgs of timber in the boat without any problems.  With some load on the backseat, the boat seems to be 'flatter' on the water.  Position of the oars is perfect. The handles of the oars are not perfectly round. It would be better if they were. The diameter is a bit small. A couple of mm's more is better for me. After two hours of rowing, I get blisters. The me
Meer lezen

Filleting the joints

Afbeelding
Time to fill the gaps between the overlapping planks. To prevent dirty spots on the hull, I used a lot of tape, inside and outside. And in the little holes of the stitches, I put cocktail sticks, brake them just at the surface of the hull and sanded the spots. That will look better than dark little epoxy filled holes.  During the process of preparing the epoxy filler, I put another layer on the inside of the daggerboard box and the rudder holder. Then I thickened the epoxy with glass powder and some home made wood powder (from the sanding machine). Just thin enough for the syringe. Filling the room between the planks was easy, but with  the last 1/4 to do, I had to make another cup of epoxy. After doing that, the syringe stuck because of the curing epoxy. I did the rest with a filler knife. After one hour, I tried to smoothen the epoxy with a gloved finger  that I make wet with denatured alcohol, but that was not easy. Final smoothening must be done with sanding paper later
Meer lezen

Epoxy

Afbeelding
The epoxy stuff arrived. Most materials for the expoy work could be ordered from one and the same company. Alltogether I'll need a lot of small but essential things. Besides the epoxy (I ordered the 'slow' variant) and the glass cloth, also things like stirring sticks, brushes, rolls, syringes, etc. They told me that the minimum temperature for the epoxy was 8 degrees bit in the package on the instructions was mentioned 12 degrees. Let's not start too early.
Meer lezen