After some extra hours of sanding, the varnishing could be started. I use transarent DD-paint. Two components 1:2. And some thinner. Epoxy is sensitive for sunlight and DD is a sort of filter against UV. All parts should be painted at least two times. I used a foamroller for the easy parts and a little brush for the small parts. For the rail I used a stick with a part of foam. Very handy and neat.
Something I realised a day after: for making the paint more fluent, I added some extra hardener instead of thinner. Same bottles... Nevertheless all got hardened and looks very shiny and glossy. One little problem with the oars: the red paint liquefied again. The brush got red and it was very hard to get the non red surface to paint transparent. One of the grips has some faint red on it now.


Most of the damage to the bulkheads has been repaired now, thanks to the new electric heater in the shed. Just one layer of epoxy to the places where I have been sanding too much, and I am ready.  I will spray matt paint on the ends, to mask the uneven surface.
I finally put the smaller part of the boat into the bigger one. Nice to see that it is fitting.
Next week will be warm. That's just what I need for the eventual layers of transparent varnish.

Rail on the skeg

Although the brass rail I bought for the rail is a bit heavy, I put it on the skeg. The skeg is a vulnerable part of the boat. With this rail I will be able to get the boat on land without worries. I first  curved the rail, then drilles the holes, made little holes for the heads of the screws and finally screwed it all on the skeg. Unscrewed it, put epoxy in the screw holes, thickened epoxy ont he rail and fastened the rail again. Learned lesson: never buy cheap metal drills. Cheap is expensive.

Painting the oars and seats

Painted a nice design on the oars. Next time I need better tape but nevertheless, I am satisfied woth the result. The foam under the seats has been sprayed with matt black DD-paint.


In the beginning of the project, I had to join the two bulkhead parts with some cardboard between it. With this, I later would cut the two parts easier. Because the bolts on the threaded ends had almost no space to screw them, I flattened the cardboard. This was a terrible mistake.
When I finally cut the boat in in two parts, it went wrong. It was almost impossible to let the saw find its way.  As a result, I cut wrong on two places. I now have to repair it by adding epoxy on the edge. Hopefully it will look nice enough. Otherwise I have to paint it in a colour instead of the nice varnished wood look.

Next problem: temperatures are dropping below the necessary heights. Let's find a heater for the shed.

Sanding time

Being back after a break in Sardinia, with some windsurfing, swimming and snorkeling, back to work now. Time is running out concerning the temperature in the shed. I have to add a couple of layers on the boat with epoxy and DD varnish, so let's hurry.
My plan is to do the bottom first, then saw the boat in two pieces, and then do the rest. The seam between the several planks are the most difficult. For the bigger surfaces the orbital sander is very useful.


The shaping of the oars is ready now. It has been much work. Since I have no band saw, I had to remove a lot of wood with my planes. Next time I'll use a different method. And because it is so much work, I regret to have used wood with knots. Simple spruce. When I thought they were ready, I discovered that the oars just fitted in the oar locks. There was no extra room for the leather oar collars. So, I had to plane and sand them again. I put a layer of epoxy on them against warping of the wood. We will soon go on vacation for some weeks and I hate surprises like warped oars. The handles will stay unfinished. Bare wood blisters less than varnished wood. I will probably give the oars nicely coloured contrast striping.