Posts

Mast foot

Afbeelding
The mast foot had to be placed in the boat. In order to place it in the right spot, I had to get the mast up, so we layed the boat in the garden. My neighbour was thinking that I was launching her in the water. I'm afraid that this will only be after my holiday in August. so much to do.


Front deck

Afbeelding
I did some epoxy jobs, today. First I gave the mast its first epoxy layer. Then I glued the plate on the aft for connecting an outboard motor. Not sure to buy one ever, but it's easier to make it now than afterwards. I also put some epoxy on the wood of the bulkheads.
For the little front deck, with the hole in it for the mast, I had to glue two wooden parts to the hull that support the deck. First with a bit of glass epoxy, later more with wood power epoxy.
When weighing the resin and hardener, the epoxy appeared to have some white stuff in it. When I inspected the container, the complete bottom was cured! Not sure what went wrong but I continued and hoped that the used epoxy would cure. It would be a disaster if I had to remove it.



I made a hole in the boom for the rope that hould pull it down. With the applied wood epoxy you hardly see the bronze screw anymore.

Routering

Afbeelding
The daggerboard can be used, now. I drilled a hole in the bottom with an extra long drill through the dagger board box. With a file I made this hole wider. Then the most exciting part had to be done: the routering. With a router/ edge cutter I followed the inside of the daggerboard case. The router has a little wheel for this purpose. The result was a professionally shape aperture. Job done.

Bottom

Afbeelding
The bottom has got a glass fabric layer. First I flattened the edge between bottom and first plank with thickened epoxy. Then I put the glass on it and added some epoxy which was left over. This bit however was already warm and curing. A mistake. The result was that this epoxy was too thick to saturate the glass and the wood under it. I immediately made new epoxy, removed the glass a little and added it to directly on the wood. When I stretched the glass again, the fabric stayed frilled. It was hard work to 'repair' that. On one place I had to cut the fabric over 10 cm, unfortunately.
Second job: I glued both planks of the wood for the oars. Second fault: I shoud have put something on the floor because of the drips op epoxy. Now, the day after, all looks well. Epoxy cured, no strange spots on the bottom. I am looking forward to the shaping of the oars but not to the necessary sanding of the boat.



For making the oars perfectly round, I made a little wooden tool. Later I will le…

Mast

Afbeelding
Today I bought the wood for the mast. Two parts which I glued together with thickened epoxy in order to prevent it from getting bent. I also used the epoxy to glue the socalled gooseneck on the boom. It is the part which will hold the boom to the mast. One of the bronze screws splitted the gooseneck a little. I hope to make this mistake invisible by sanding it. I epoxied the yard again, one side of the rudder and some of the interior of the boat.
For the oars, I ordered a little manual of CLCboats: "How to Build Your Own Oars". Is also comes with plans with dimensions. 



Fiberglassing

Afbeelding
The bottom of the boat needed glassfiber, but when I unpacked the box, not all fabric was 200 grams. Most of it was 80 grams. I therefore laminated only the front inside part. I taped the outside of the area, spread the fabric, cut is and put the epoxy on it. With a squegee I saturated every part, so that the wood structure became visible again.
The rest of the epoxy was used for some wooden parts, including the second of the two spars (boom and sprit) and for strengthening the dagger board case. To be sure that the mixed epoxy started to cure, I waited a little before using it. But when I started to put it on the boat, it was already hot. Just when I was finished, the stirring stick stuck in the pot...
With a gloved thumb wetted with denatured alccohol, I smoothened the rough surface of the thickened epoxy around the daggerboard case. Everything looked nice until I removed the tape, causing an ugly rim. I tried to save it by pushing it, but I will still have to sand it when it is cur…

Dagger board trunk

Afbeelding
The fillets have cured and are very hard. It won't be easy to sand them. If I compare them to the ones on pictures from others, they are a bit generously added. But they will make the boat strong. The daggerboard trunk was a few millimeters too high and the lower front part had to be rounded more. After that, I added thickened epoxy andput it in place, right-angled. A hammer on top and tape to keep it right.