Step by step building process of an Eastport pram, a little sailing and rowing boat of okoume plywood and epoxy. Dick Stada explains his methods and choices, documented with pictures. Mainly for his own documentation.
Painting the oars and seats
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Painted a nice design on the oars. Next time I need better tape but nevertheless, I am satisfied woth the result. The foam under the seats has been sprayed with matt black DD-paint.
My boat can be built with a kit. Cheasapeak Light Craft do sell them for about $1100. And if you want to sail with it, you have to spend an extra $955. I want to save some mosatisfactory to make everything by yourself. The boat will be a saling boat. You can buy a simple aluminum mast, boom and gaff, but I willl make them of wood and epoxy. It can't be that complicated. The best way to prevent them from warping is to glue two halves with epoxy. Because it is still freezing in the shed, I have to wait until it is warm enough. Today I have studied sailmaking. Sailrite in the USA soes sell kits for sewing it. The simpel little sail kit still costs $165. Sailmaking is not easy. It is not just a 2D square but it has to have a sort of curve in order to make the boat sail. I have found software that can help you to design the exact parts of the sail. It generates a CAD file whoch can be used in a sailcut machine. I hope to find a way in which I can print it scale 1:1. I expecte...
The epoxy of the glued parts has hardened finally. Only after a day. It must have been the temperature in the attic and the temperature of the wood which came out of the cold shed just before the epoxy job. Making every edge of the wood parts smooth is costing more effort than expected, especially the holes in the aft and bow transoms and in the daggerboard. I have made a simple sanding tool on the drill, which will save time. Next thing is to glue the trusses. It is made of 2 x 2 planks, holded together by six bolts. I need to find appropriate bolts with nice butterfly nuts.
Time to fill the gaps between the overlapping planks. To prevent dirty spots on the hull, I used a lot of tape, inside and outside. And in the little holes of the stitches, I put cocktail sticks, brake them just at the surface of the hull and sanded the spots. That will look better than dark little epoxy filled holes. During the process of preparing the epoxy filler, I put another layer on the inside of the daggerboard box and the rudder holder. Then I thickened the epoxy with glass powder and some home made wood powder (from the sanding machine). Just thin enough for the syringe. Filling the room between the planks was easy, but with the last 1/4 to do, I had to make another cup of epoxy. After doing that, the syringe stuck because of the curing epoxy. I did the rest with a filler knife. After one hour, I tried to smoothen the epoxy with a gloved finger that I make wet with denatured alcohol, but that was not easy. Final smoothening must be done with sandi...
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